Crate Training for Barbado da Terceiras
Apply the article’s guidance to your own dog. Individual dogs vary.

Applying the advice to your Barbado da Terceira
What to observe for crate training
- Use the article’s guidance and note what you observe about your own dog during crate sessions, meals and naps.
Published advice: Crate Training: Alicia's Step-by-Step Method
Original by Alicia Collins. Read the original free article. The source text below is unchanged.
This is Alicia's own step-by-step crate-training method. Crate training is progressive: every dog moves at their own pace, and the timings below are Alicia's starting points, not a schedule that is right for every dog. A crate is not the right fit for every dog without looking at that individual dog, so if you are unsure, ask a trainer who can see your dog in person.
Choosing and setting up the crate
This section is adapted from Alicia's February 2025 draft on choosing a crate. The step-by-step method further down comes from Alicia's current instructions.
Crate types.
- Fabric crates are lightweight and portable but easier to escape from. Alicia uses them only with small breeds or under supervision.
- Solid-sided crates (plastic, plastic-and-wire, steel or aluminum) give a more enclosed, den-like space that can help some anxious dogs feel more comfortable. They may be harder to clean and generally don't come with a size divider. Some models are crash-tested for car travel.
- Wire crates are common, fold flat and often include a puppy divider. For large, powerful dogs, choose a sturdy enough build.
Sizing at home. Your dog should be able to stand up and turn around. While a puppy is growing, an adult-sized crate with a divider can be practical. In Alicia's experience, too much unused space can make it easier for a puppy in potty training to toilet at the far end, so adjust the divider as your puppy grows.
Travel. Secure or anchor the crate in your vehicle. For air travel, check your airline's specific crate requirements. The right size and type can differ from trip to trip.
Anxious or escape-prone dogs. Dogs who panic or try to escape a crate can injure themselves, so choose equipment carefully. An enclosed crate may help some dogs feel more settled, but it does not treat anxiety. Talk to a qualified trainer or your veterinarian when needed.
How long and how it's used. Meals and naps are part of the method below. Alicia's older draft gives a rough rule of about one hour per month of age, stretching longer overnight. Treat this as a starting point that needs your own judgment, not a maximum or a safety standard. Base crate time on your dog's age, bladder needs, development and how your dog responds. Adult dogs left for longer daytime stretches need a midday break. No duration is right for every dog.
Bedding. Use a crate bed sized to the crate if your dog doesn't chew it. If your dog chews bedding, remove it or switch to something your dog won't chew.
Crate safety. Take off your dog's collar, harness and tags before crating to reduce the risk of snagging. Any chew or bone given in the crate must be chosen for your individual dog and supervised, as explained below.
Before you start: chew safety
The method uses a high-value meaty bone or chew. Never leave a dog unattended with a bone or toy that could be accidentally ingested.
- No bone or chew is safe for every dog. Choose one that suits your individual dog's size, age and chewing style, and ask your veterinarian when you are unsure what is suitable.
- Very hard bones can fracture teeth, and swallowed pieces can cause choking or injury to the stomach and intestines.
- Supervise and watch every chew session, including the sessions where you are out of your dog's sight. Out of sight never means unattended.
- Take the bone away when the session ends. Do not leave your dog alone in the crate with a bone.
Step 1: Build interest in the crate
While your dog or puppy is out of the crate, put a high-value meaty bone or chew inside and close the door. Let your dog discover the crate and build interest in getting inside to reach it. Don't immediately open the door; wait for your dog to communicate that they want in.
Step 2: First short session
Once interest is built, let your dog go in with the bone and close the crate for 3 minutes. Then take your dog out and leave the bone inside with the door shut.
Step 3: Let interest build again
Let your dog build interest in getting back to the bone for about 5 minutes. Then let them back in with the bone and close the door for 3–5 minutes.
Step 4: Repeat, then extend over a few days
Repeat that cycle 3–4 times, then put the bone away. Repeat a few sessions over 2–3 days, gradually extending the chew time up to 15 minutes. If your dog needs more time at any stage, stay at that stage longer.
Step 5: Meals and naps in the crate
Feed meals in the crate. Use the crate for naps when your dog or puppy is already tired.
Step 6: Out of sight first, then relaxed with you present
Crate training is progressive. Alicia finds it easier for dogs to be crated when the owner is out of sight at first. The goal is for your dog to be relaxed in the crate while you are present.
Step 7: Overnight crating
Alicia's approach does not require delaying overnight crating until the daytime crate sessions are finished. If an overnight setup is appropriate for your dog and your household, it can begin on night one.
If your dog or puppy is already sleeping in the crate overnight and it is working, keep it. There's no need to slow down or retrain an arrangement that is already working.
Overnight crating isn't mandatory and isn't the right fit for every dog. Whether it works depends on your dog's age and bladder needs, the setup you can provide, and how your dog actually responds. Overnight sessions are long, so watch your dog's response closely and see the whining and distress guidance in Step 8 before leaving them for the night.
Step 8: Whining and the quiet pause
If your dog is actively whining, don't open the door while they are whining. Wait for at least 2–3 seconds of quiet, then open the door, marking and rewarding the quiet.
Brief whining is different from escalating distress. If whining escalates into panic, frantic escape attempts, or other clear distress, don't wait it out: end the session safely and make the next repetition easier and shorter. If distress keeps happening, or you have any health concern, talk to your veterinarian or an in-person trainer.
Apply it to your dog's breed
Alicia's method stays the same for every dog. Our free breed guides include observation prompts to help you apply the article's guidance to your own dog during crate sessions. Find yours on your breed page under "Guides & resources," for example Crate Training for Labrador Retrievers or Crate Training for Dachshunds.
This article is general education, not a guarantee of results or a substitute for veterinary or individual training advice.